The dog stairs allow our dogs to use their own four legs rather than relying on us to carry them around. There are a lot of different dog steps and stairs available, so it is one of the more popular furniture items for dogs. As a result, smaller or older dogs that are constantly climbing on furniture are at less risk of injury. You know, those clumsy dogs who fall off of furniture all the time!
When you build your own dog stairs, you can customize them to meet your dog’s needs and your space restrictions. Dog stairs can also be made with the material of your choice to match your home’s décor.
Is there a need for dog stairs?
There is a purpose for dog stairs. It enables dogs to move around independently when their jumping ability is weak. Dog stairs are helpful when:
- If your dog has arthritis, stopping him from jumping around all night can greatly improve the quality of his life over time.
- In addition to helping dogs with mobility issues, dog stairs can also reduce the amount of assistance you need. There are even miniature steps you can build for dogs in wheelchairs who need to navigate unusually large steps.
- You can use a doggy staircase for anything from broken legs to spinal injuries to recovering from surgery. Rather than keeping him in his bed all day, let him explore the house despite his injuries.
- Senior dogs require some extra assistance from time to time, just like elderly humans. The walking stick your grandmother gave you is more than an ornament. It will also help keep your older pups healthy and reduce the chance of injury in the future if you make things a little easier for them.
- Our dogs, including puppies and smaller breeds like dachshunds, can make those human-sized steps and jump onto furniture without a second thought. Having less couch action means less stress for puppies. For the cute short-legged breeds out there, it is easy to treat them like the larger dogs who are not stressed by such situations.
- The purpose of DIY dog stairs is not always to benefit the dogs, but to benefit humans. You probably won’t be able to lift a dog weighing 240 pounds onto the bed. You may want to consider installing dog stairs.
What are the best stairs for my dog?
- Look at each step’s rise. The rise should be similar to the rise on regular indoor and outdoor steps.
- A product with a step depth of 10 to 12 inches is easier for dogs to maneuver.
- Anti-skid surfaces should be used on the stairs. In order for your dog to stay on the surface, his paws must be able to grip it.
Ensure the stairs are high enough for you and your dog.
How should I choose a dog ramp?
- If you plan on letting your dog climb onto furniture or into your car, make sure the ramp is high enough.
- Consider a lightweight ramp or one that folds up if space is a consideration. You can then store it more easily.
- Your dog will be able to maneuver on a ramp that has an anti-skid surface.
- It may be necessary to train your dog to use stairs or a ramp. Reward him with positive reinforcement. This will help him feel more comfortable. Indeed, he’ll use it even if you aren’t there.
How to build dog stairs?
With these easy-to-assemble steps, you can give your pup a leg up. Using plywood sides and simple 1×2 cleats to hold the pieces in place, you’ll be surprised at how easy it is to assemble.
- Framing square
- Circular saw
- Hammer or finish nailer
- (1) 4x8x1/2 sheet of sanded plywood
- (1) 1x3x6 pine board
- (1) 1” x 8’ piece of flat trim molding
- Wood glue
- Masking tape
- (1) box 3/4” finish nails
- 24×36 flat weave rug
- 24×36 non-slip rug mat
- Paint supplies
Step 1: Parts need to be cut
With the help of a miter saw and the cut list above, the 1*2 and 1*6 pieces should be cut to size. Utilizing the diagram on the right and a circular saw, cut the plywood into three equal pieces. As a result of losing about 1/8 inch per cut, you will have two parts measuring 17 inches and one measuring 13½ inches, all by 24 inches wide. This will now allow you to cut three eight-inch-wide treads out of the middle section.
Step2: Create the sides
Place each side piece face down and mark the angles 6 inches up from the bottom of the front corner, and 8 inches across from the corner at the top and back of the side piece. Once all the marks are made, join the lines together.
Step 3: Trim the sides
Using a circular saw, cut each side of the plywood along the line. Using a makeshift fence, I am able to make a straight cut with my circular saw. Disconnect the saw from the power source and measure the distance from the outer edge of the footplate to the blade of the saw. The distance should be marked by two points parallel to the line at that distance. It is very important that you mark them perpendicular to the line. When a board is clamped along with the lines, the saw will run along the edge of the board and cut the lines as shown in the image. In my case, the footplate is 5 1/8 inches beyond the edge of the blade, so the board in the picture is 5 1/8 inches from the edge of my cut line.
Step 4: Placing the first cleat
Layout the plywood Sides so that they are facing downwards on the work surface. Use a speed square to mark vertical lines 3 4 inches from every edge of the font. Place a 512-inch Riser Cleat inside each line on each board. Apply glue to the back of the Cleat and then nail it into place with a pneumatic nail gun and 1-inch finish nails.
Step 5: Layout of the cleats
Use the diagram to the right and a speed square to layout the remaining Cleats.
Step 6: Get the cleats installed
Glue the backs of each cleat and nail them into place as you work your way up the “steps.” Use the speed square to ensure everything remains square.
Step 7: Install the cleats
Upon reaching the top tread cleat, allow 12-inches of space above it where the tread will set. In addition, the Support Bar should be able to be installed later with a 34″ gap behind the cleat.
Step 8: Assemble the first riser
Wood glue should be used to adhere the Cleat and one end of the 1*6 Riser to the front. Ensure that the riser ends touch the inside of the sidewall when they are connected to the cleat. Utilizing a pneumatic nail gun and two 114 inch finish nails, nail the Riser into the Cleat while holding it square to the side. Then staple the Riser to the remainder of the Cleat.
Step 9: Attach the remaining risers
The next step consists of placing the second Riser against the next vertical Cleat. Glue the face of the Cleats and the ends of the Riser with wood glue before nailing through the Riser and into the Cleats. The upper Riser should be done in a similar manner.
Step 10: Place first tread
Glue the top edge of each horizontal Cleat and each Riser. The first Tread should be placed on the lowest Cleat. In order to ensure proper alignment, the tread edges should be flush with the lowest riser, while the back edges should be flush with the middle riser. Nail two nails into each cleat in order to hold the tread in place.
Step 11: Remaining Treads
Follow Step 10 again. When the tread reaches the top, it will rest against the back edge of the Sides, flush with the riser below it.
Step 12; Add support bar
Between the sides and against the top tread, the 1*2 Support Bar should be positioned. Two nails 1 1/4 inches long are nailed from the sides and ends of the 1×2.
Step 13: Add 1×6 Support Bar
Lay the 1×6 Support Bar between the sides, flush with their bottoms and backs. Hold the piece in place by nailing 1¼ inch nails into the ends and along the sides of the board.